Revised 10/04/26
swim cap history

Vintage Swim Caps & Retro Swimwear

How the swim cap went from a Victorian bathing bonnet to a petal-covered fashion statement, and how to wear the look now.

A swim cap can be the cutest thing you wear all summer.

Two women in vintage swim caps facing each other across an inner tube in the water in 1958
Two swimmers in vintage caps, 1958. Photo: FORTEPAN / Lencse Zoltán, no. 54645. Cropped. CC BY-SA 3.0.

We’ll admit that some vintage trends should stay in the past. No one really wants to rock a fox fur shawl or a bone-crushing corset. Some vintage trends, however, belong at the forefront of the 21st century. The right vintage pieces have an unparalleled appeal, and vintage swim caps fit the bill perfectly.

Retro swimwear has played an important role in both fashion and function. Vintage swim caps are currently all the rage in the fashion world and are making waves with wearers around the world. The variety of colors, shapes and styles of these caps contributes to the overall popularity of vintage swim caps as we know them today.

vintage swim caps: the history

from bathing bonnets to petals

Every era left its mark on the swim cap (or bathing cap, or swimming hat, depending on who you ask), from silk bonnets to wartime shortages to a garden of rubber petals.

early bathing caps and the Victorian era

Illustration from two period fashion plates: women in bonnets and morning dresses at a seaside bathing place in 1797, and women and a child in bathing suits and hats in 1876
Left: Nikolaus Heideloff, Gallery of Fashion: “Bathing Place. Morning Dresses”, 1797. Right: “Ladies’ and Children’s Bathing Suits,” Harper’s Bazar, July 15, 1876, p. 461.

Swim caps have a deep and interesting historical significance. In the days of old, women used cloth or silk bonnets to cover their heads while they went swimming. These bonnets weren’t super practical, so bathers looked for better ways to protect their hair. Victorian bathing caps were often made of oiled silk or waxed linen, and in 1873 one good bathing cap was described as an oiled silk cap with a crown roomy enough to hold the hair loosely. Later in the century, caps had large full crowns and wired brims, and fashionable bathers wore a rubber or oiled silk cap under a bright silk turban when the surf was up.1 Caps made of rubberized fabric followed in the early 20th century, and latex caps by the 1920s.2 While most every woman desired to keep her hairstyle covered when out in the elements, the elite in society were known to have the most ornate bathing or swimming caps.

A rust-orange gathered bathing cap from about 1910 to 1920, photographed in a museum collection
Bathing cap, about 1910 to 1920. Nederlands Openluchtmuseum, object K.78-73, via Modemuze. CC0.

swim caps in the 1920s and 1930s

In the early 1920s, caps were designed in the style of aviator helmets worn by pilots during that time period.2 Other swim caps of this era featured a voluminous bonnet-like shape. For the most part, the designs were simple with minimal decoration. A similar gathered shape lives on in today’s fabric swim turbans.

Three young women in 1920s bathing suits and close-fitting bathing caps wading at the beach in 1924
At Arlington Beach, Virginia, 1924. National Photo Company, Library of Congress, LC-USZ62-85709.

swim caps during the 1940s and World War II

By the 1940s, rubber became a much-needed resource for war efforts in the US, as well as overseas, making rubber caps a scarce and coveted item.2 Women during this era spent a great deal of hard-earned money to keep their hairstyles current. Swim caps provided a way for women to help make their expensive and chic do’s last longer.

Three student nurses in dark swimsuits and white swim caps at an indoor pool in 1942
Student nurses at the pool, 1942. Fritz Henle for the Office of War Information, Library of Congress, LC-DIG-fsa-8b09772.
A row of women in 1940s swimsuits running hand in hand along a beach
Wartime swimwear: members of the Women’s Army Corps stationed in North Africa on a day off at the beach, about 1944. Franklin D. Roosevelt Library, U.S. National Archives, NAID 196356.

swim caps in the 1950s and 1960s

Public pool rules in the 1950s dictated that women with long hair must keep their hair covered with a swim cap to keep the drains from clogging and to keep the pools clean and sanitary. Decorative caps were more mainstream due to more rubber availability and up-and-coming fashion trends. The 1960s saw a rise in popularity of colorful petal swim caps.2

A woman in a white swim cap covered in layers of drooping petals, like an artichoke, in 1960
Juliana Drooge, women’s champion at the water-ski championship on the Bosbaan in Amsterdam, July 10, 1960. Joop van Bilsen / Anefo, Nationaal Archief 911-4113, via Wikimedia Commons. CC0.

Some caps went further than flowers. One late-1950s rubber cap in the FIDM Museum collection is textured and printed to look like a woman’s hairstyle, and a 1962 New York Times advertisement described an “aqua wig,” a rubber cap covered in synthetic hair that needed no resetting when wet.3

A white 1950s Kleinert's Sava-Wave rubber swim cap with an embossed leaf pattern and a chin strap
Kleinert’s Sava-Wave swim cap, 1950 to 1960: white rubber with an embossed leaf pattern and a chin strap. Museum Rotterdam, object 69929-A-B, via Modemuze. CC BY-SA 3.0.
The original Kleinert's Sava-Wave box for a 1950s swim cap, printed with a woman in a swim cap
Its original box, which sold it as “the watertight swim cap.” Museum Rotterdam, object 69929-A-B, via Modemuze. CC BY-SA 3.0.

swim caps in the 1970s through the 1990s

As long hairstyles for men became more and more popular in the late 1960s and early 1970s, some public pools extended their swim cap rules to men with long hair. Cap wearing became less common as fashions changed in the late 1970s, and seeing a woman in a bathing cap became a rarity. The free-spirited generation during this era saw swim caps as representative of an older generation and ditched what they saw as a cumbersome accessory. Caps found their way back to the pool in the 1980s and 1990s, as competitive swimming and swimming for fitness grew more popular.4

Women in flowered and decorated swim caps looking up during a group exercise class in a pool in 1973
Residents exercising in a pool at Century Village retirement community, West Palm Beach, Florida, June 1973. Flip Schulke for the EPA’s Documerica project, U.S. National Archives, NAID 548550.
A yellow rubber swim cap covered in raised spikes, shaped like a sea urchin
A Brit Marine cap shaped like a sea urchin, 1960 to 1980: yellow rubber covered in raised spikes, made in England and marked “Wear high up on the brow and low down at the neck.” Museum Rotterdam, object 77944, via Modemuze. CC BY-SA 3.0.

swim caps in the 21st century

As retro and vintage-inspired clothing became trendy in the beginning of the 21st century, decorative swim caps made a major comeback. Many women all over the world now sport retro-style bathing caps at the beach, pool, and anywhere else they want to swim in style. Today’s vintage-inspired caps, ours included, are newly made designs that borrow the shapes and details of earlier bathing caps.

making waves with celebrities: Esther Williams

the swimmer who made swim caps glamorous

Champion swimmer and 1940s screen star Esther Williams left a lasting mark on swimwear fashion. Many popular swimwear fashions can be traced back to Williams and her original 1940s and 1950s style. In fact, retro swim fashions are almost synonymous with her name.

from champion swimmer to movie star

In 1939, 17-year-old Esther Williams won the national 100-meter freestyle title and was training for the 1940 Olympic Games, which were canceled when World War II broke out.5 She starred instead in Billy Rose’s San Francisco Aquacade opposite Johnny Weissmuller, and MGM signed her soon after. Bathing Beauty (1944), the first of the swimming musicals MGM created especially for her, helped make swimwear part of Hollywood glamour.6

Esther Williams the swimwear fashion icon

The post-World War II era ushered in the age of fashion exploration, and swimwear was no exception. People finally had time and money to spend on better-fitting, more fashionable poolside attire. General rules requiring women to keep long hair contained under a swim cap at public pools in the 1950s saw a rise in the need for fashionable swim caps. At that time, Esther Williams’ swim style was being splashed across movie screens nationwide, and her attire, which focused on both fashion and function, became all the rage. Colorful caps with intricate designs, like the swim caps Williams wore in her swimming films, became a staple of many women’s swimwear wardrobes.7 Flourishing flowers and geometric patterns adorned the rubber and latex caps that helped protect hair and provide an element of fashion.

Two smiling women in close-fitting swim caps leaning on an inner tube in the water in 1958
Two swimmers in fitted caps, 1958. Photo: FORTEPAN / Lencse Zoltán, no. 54649. Cropped. CC BY-SA 3.0.
A woman in sunglasses on the beach holding up two decorated swim caps in 1964
Beach fashion, 1964: a model shows off the season’s swim caps. Harry Pot / Anefo, Nationaal Archief 916-4564, via Wikimedia Commons. CC0.

She later lent her name to a line of home swimming pools, and in the 1980s she launched her own Esther Williams swimwear line, designed so women could swim laps without worrying about their suits or swim caps staying in place.8

vintage swim caps for modern women

on the screen and on the runway

Celebrities such as Florence Welch of the band Florence and the Machine have been seen wearing retro-style swim caps on the world’s beaches. In 2016, Uma Thurman and her daughter even sported matching swim caps.9 Movies and TV shows have cashed in on the popularity of this fashion accessory by featuring vintage caps. In the 2007 hit movie Atonement, set in the 1930s, Keira Knightley wears one of our aqua fitness bathing caps poolside. Our Sheridan Retro Swim Cap was featured in an episode of the popular TV show My Name Is Earl.

Costume designers have come to us too. The Glee costume team bought our petal swim caps for a musical number, Sandra Bullock wears a limited edition petal cap in All About Steve, our waffle weave chin strap caps appear in the synchronized swimming scene in Mona Lisa Smile, and our petal caps have turned up on CSI: Miami, Gossip Girl, The Bachelor and Ramona and Beezus. See them on our TV and movie features page.

Fashion designers Prada, Marc Jacobs, and Victoria Beckham have all featured retro swim caps on their runways. In some runway shows, designers use bathing caps as fashion accessories designed with sequins, silk, or even leather construction.

Our line of Sync Swimwear features fashion-forward swim cap designs, inspired by high fashion and retro style. In fact, some of our swim caps were even featured on the runway with brand Chromat at New York Fashion Week. Our Petal Swim Cap can be seen in the pages of Vogue magazine and on the heads of stars in movies. Shop Sync Swimwear here.

If you love the look of that golden era of swimwear, our line of Retro Swim Caps carries it on. Wearing a swim cap can help protect your hair from sun, salt and chlorine, but wearing a vintage-style Retro Swim Cap can take your swimwear style to new heights and help keep you on trend. Working to keep you looking fabulous and keeping your head covered out and about and in and around the water, we make the retro look so easy.

why we love vintage swim caps

fashion and function

We love vintage swim caps for two reasons: they’re fashionable, and they’re functional. Any swim cap will help to provide protection from chlorine, salt, and sun for the hair. However, vintage caps provide the element of fashion to give the functionality of your cap a boost. If you have hair, the swim cap will protect it from the water and sun to keep it healthy throughout the summer. If you prefer to keep your scalp covered in the pool, a swim cap gives you that option. Swimming during treatment? Our guide to swimming during chemo covers what to ask your care team and what to wear.

Whether you have hair or not, vintage-inspired swim caps elevate your poolside style to the next level. With their fun, flattering, and playful look, vintage swim caps make a statement and can take your swimwear from drab to fab in a snap. Matching your swim cap to your bathing suit or beachwear can help make accessorizing fun and interesting. With lively and fun designs, vintage and retro-inspired caps are a unique way to protect your hair and scalp. Many of these caps feature interesting textures and bright colors, making them the perfect choice for anyone wanting to stand out from the crowd.

A petal cap is an easy detail to build a swim look around, and the finishing touch for vintage swimwear. Pair a white cap with a simple black suit, or pick a cap that repeats one color from a printed suit. The petals add texture, so the rest of the outfit can stay simple.

Shop vintage swim caps here, or start with our petal swim cap.

tips for vintage swim caps

keeping water out and your cap in shape
  • Add a layer underneath. Although vintage caps do help protect the hair and scalp, it is often necessary to add a protective layer underneath the cap to help keep water out. Our Hair Guard swim headband is ideal for wearing underneath vintage-style caps to help create a seal that will repel water and provide an extra layer of protection. Made of 100% silicone, it is easy to use and can be worn with any of our swim caps over the top. With a cap over it, it keeps hair almost completely dry for dips in the pool and light swimming; lap swimmers may still see a little water at the edges. Latex and silicone swim caps are also helpful in creating a better seal and giving your vintage-style swim cap another layer of protection.
  • Put it on gently. Swim caps can tear and stretch if they are not put on properly. Make sure that you read our guide on how to put on a swim cap and put yours on correctly.
  • Rinse and dry it. Rinse your cap in clean water after swimming and let it dry away from direct sun and heat.
  • Plan to replace it. With regular use, a swim cap needs replacing every few months, and sooner if it tears.
A smiling swimmer in a close-fitting white racing cap holding the edge of the pool in 1966
English backstroke swimmer Linda Ludgrove at the European Swimming Championships in Utrecht, 1966. Ron Kroon / Anefo, Nationaal Archief 919-4778. CC0.

No matter when or where you wear a vintage swim cap, you’re sure to make a fashionable splash!


questions about vintage swim caps

open only the one you need
when did petal swim caps become popular?

Decorated caps came into fashion in the 1950s, once rubber was easier to get after the war, and colorful petal caps took off in the 1960s. Our petal swim cap carries the same look today.

why did women stop wearing swim caps?

Many public pools once required caps for women with long hair, and in the late 1960s and early 1970s some extended the rule to men with long hair. As fashions changed in the late 1970s, caps fell out of favor until competitive and fitness swimming brought them back in the 1980s and 1990s.

who was Esther Williams?

A champion swimmer who won national titles as a teenager and hoped to swim at the 1940 Olympics, which were canceled because of World War II. She starred in Billy Rose’s San Francisco Aquacade in 1940, then in MGM’s swimming musicals, beginning with Bathing Beauty in 1944. The colorful, decorated caps in her films helped make the swim cap a fashion statement.

will a vintage swim cap keep my hair dry?

A rubber cap keeps out more water than a fabric one, but some water can still get in at the edges, especially when you swim laps. For the driest hair, wear our Hair Guard swim headband underneath. With a cap over it, it keeps hair almost completely dry for dips in the pool and light swimming.

Have a question we didn’t answer, or a vintage cap story of your own? Tell us. We’d love to hear it.


why we care about this

specialists in hair loss since 1995

In 1990, my grandmother Carol went through breast cancer treatment and could not find anything comfortable or attractive to wear. She was a hairstylist, and she promised herself that if she came through it she would fix that for the women who came after her. She and my mother started Headcovers on that idea in 1995.

Swim caps sit on our shelves for the same reason the hats do. A cute cap makes a woman feel special at the pool, whether it’s covering a fresh blowout or a bare head. I love that a petal cap is every bit as fun to wear now as it was in the 1960s.


Ready to make a splash? Petal caps, retro florals and everything in between.

  1. Claudia B. Kidwell, Smithsonian Institution, Women’s Bathing and Swimming Costume in the United States (1968), via Project Gutenberg. ↩
  2. History Trust of South Australia, Adora bathing cap, 1960s (collection record). ↩
  3. FIDM Museum, Bathing cap. ↩
  4. Scarborough Museums and Galleries, Swim cap (collection object, 1960s). ↩
  5. Swimming World Magazine, Passages: Esther Williams, 91 (2013). ↩
  6. Encyclopædia Britannica, Esther Williams. ↩
  7. Aqua Magazine, Hats Off To Swim Caps. ↩
  8. CBS News, Esther Williams 1921-2013. ↩
  9. Hello! magazine, Uma Thurman shares funny photo from her swimming lesson with daughter Luna (2016). ↩

All sources last checked October 2026.

Comments, Questions & Ratings

Add a comment. Post a rating. Leave your comments.

No reviews now.