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Eyebrow Shapes: Types and Which One Suits You
See the different eyebrow shapes and types side by side, with pictures, then find the shape that suits your face and learn how to wear it. For brows you are shaping, filling in, or drawing on from bare skin.

Eyebrows frame your face like nothing else does, and the right shape is usually a smaller change than you'd expect.
These are the basic eyebrow shapes: soft angled (also called a soft arch), rounded, straight, hard angled and S-shaped. Below, see the different types of eyebrows in detail, find your face shape, and see which shape suits you best. If your brows have thinned with age or been lost to chemo or alopecia, start with the fixes for thinning brows or how to draw a brow on bare skin.

different types of eyebrow shapes and styles
Female eyebrow shapes and styles come down to five details: arch height, arch shape, thickness, definition, and tail length. All eyebrow styles, and all the different types of eyebrows you'll see in product descriptions, are a mix of these five. Knowing them helps you see what will work for your face.
Just want your answer? Skip to find your face shape.
arch height

arch shape

eyebrow thickness

definition

tail length and eyebrow length

find your face shape
To know what eyebrow shape suits you, start with your face shape. Pull your hair back and look straight into a mirror. Notice where your face is widest and whether your jaw is rounded, angular, or tapered. If you're between two face shapes, read both sections. The recommendations often overlap.
Find the face that looks most like yours, then tap it to see the brow that suits it.
- Forehead a little wider than the jaw
- About 1.5 times longer than wide
- Gently rounded jaw with no sharp angles
- The most versatile face shape
- Width and length nearly equal
- Widest at the cheeks
- Soft, curved jaw and a rounded chin
- Forehead, cheeks and jaw about the same width
- Strong, angular jaw
- About as wide as it is long
- Wide forehead tapering to a narrow, pointed chin
- Cheekbones may be prominent
- Sometimes a widow's peak
- Noticeably longer than wide
- Forehead, cheeks and jaw similar in width
- Elongated overall
- Narrow forehead and chin
- Wide, prominent cheekbones
- Chin often pointed; angular overall
- Narrow forehead that widens through the jaw
- Jaw is the widest point
- Less common than the others
A diamond face is an oval with stronger cheekbones, and a pear face is a square that widens toward the jaw. If you land on either one, read its cousin too.
the short answer
You don't need to change a brow shape you already like. When researchers compared three expert brow-mapping methods, none came out ahead for attractiveness.1 Use this guide to compare options, whether you're trying something new or recreating familiar brows after hair loss.
| face shape | best brow | avoid | tattoo match |
|---|---|---|---|
| oval | Soft angled arch, medium thickness, shallow to medium height | Very flat or very high arches | #12, #17, #18, #20 |
| round | Medium to high arch with an angled peak, set toward the outer third | Rounded or flat brows | #16, #20, #21, #22 |
| square | Full brow, soft angled or soft curved, low to medium height | Sharp, dramatic peaks; very thin brows | #20, #21 |
| heart | Soft brow, low to medium arch, medium thickness | Full, thick brows; high dramatic arches | #17, #18 |
| oblong | Flat to low arch with extended tails | High arches; short tails | #12, #19 |
| diamond | Curved or soft angled arch, medium height | Hard angled peaks; very thin brows | #17, #18, #19, #21 |
| pear | Medium arch, extended tails, medium to full thickness | Short tails; very thin brows | #17, #18, #21, #22 |
Each tattoo sheet lists the length of its brows: #16 is about 1¾ inches, #20 about 2 inches, #12 and #19 about 2⅛ inches, #17, #21 and #22 about 2¼ inches, and #18 about 2½ inches. Compare the length with the brow you mapped. A shape recommendation is only a starting point.
eyebrow shapes by face shape
Choosing a flattering eyebrow shape is about selecting a brow that complements and balances your face shape. Each shape in full: what works, why it works, what to avoid, and which of our products fit.
best eyebrow shape for an oval face

Oval is the most versatile face shape for eyebrows, because the proportions are already balanced. Almost any shape works as long as you avoid extremes, and most people look best without a dramatic brow.
what works
- A soft angled arch
- Medium thickness
- A shallow to medium arch height
- A gently curved brow that follows the natural brow bone
avoid
- Very flat, straight brows, which can make the face look shorter and wider
- Very high, dramatic arches, which can lengthen the face unnecessarily
best eyebrow shape for a round face

Round faces benefit from eyebrows that add length and lift: a higher arch makes the face look longer. A soft, curved brow with little arch only emphasizes the roundness.
what works
- A medium to high arch
- A soft angled or hard angled peak
- The arch placed toward the outer third of the brow, not centered
- Fuller thickness
avoid
- Rounded eyebrows with little arch, which mirror the face and make it look wider
- Flat, straight brows, which have the same effect
best eyebrow shape for a square face

Square faces have strong, angular features, and a soft arch, angled or curved, creates a gentle contrast with an angular jaw. Fuller brows work well because they balance the strong structure.
what works
- Full, thick brows
- A soft angled or soft curved arch
- A low to medium arch height, which keeps the face from looking longer
- Some brow artists prefer a stronger angle on a square face, to pull the eye upward. Try both and see which you like
avoid
- Hard angled arches with a sharp, dramatic peak, which compete with an angular jaw
- Very flat brows
- Very thin brows, which lack the presence to balance a strong jaw
best eyebrow shape for a heart shaped face

Your forehead is the widest part of a heart face, and a heavy, high or structured brow amplifies it. Try a lighter fill before adding more definition; less usually reads better.
what works
- Soft brows
- A low to medium arch height
- A curved or soft angled peak
- Medium thickness
avoid
- Full, thick brows
- High, dramatic arches, which make the forehead the focus
best eyebrow shape for an oblong face

For an oblong face, try a lower arch and a longer tail. Both add width and interrupt the long vertical line. A high arch can look lovely on other faces, but on an oblong face it just makes the face look longer.
what works
- A flat to low arch height
- Extended tails that reach slightly past your mapped end point
- Medium to full thickness
avoid
- High arches, which add height and make a long face look even longer
- Short tails, which don't add width to a long face
best eyebrow shape for a diamond face

A diamond face is widest at the cheekbones, with a narrower forehead and chin. A curved or softly angled brow softens those angles; a sharp peak echoes them.
what works
- A curved or soft angled arch
- A medium arch height
- Medium to full thickness, which balances the narrow forehead
- A soft brow that softens the angles while keeping balance
avoid
- Hard angled arches with a sharp peak, which echo the angles of the face
- Very thin brows, which don't soften the angles of a diamond face
best eyebrow shape for a pear shaped face

Pear faces are narrower at the forehead and wider at the jaw, so a little more presence at the brow brings the face into balance. Extended tails and a medium arch draw attention across the forehead and add width there.
what works
- A medium arch height
- Extended tails
- Fuller thickness, for more visual weight at the forehead
avoid
- Short tails, which don't extend enough to create width at the forehead
- Very thin brows, which fail to balance the face at the top
Go back to the safe default: a soft angled arch in medium thickness, or tattoo #17.
your eyes change the answer too
Face shape sets the brow's overall shape. How your eyes sit in your face can fine-tune where it starts and peaks. These are adjustments to try, not rules.
- Close-set eyes. Try placing the arch a little farther out.1 Carrying the tail a little longer also widens the look of the eyes.
- Wide-set eyes. Try the arch a little farther in.1 Some brow artists also start the brows a touch closer to the nose.
- Hooded eyes. A slightly higher, more defined arch and a slimmer brow open up the eye area. A heavy brow sitting close to a hooded lid can make the eye look smaller.
- Deep-set eyes. A lighter brow shade helps. A very dark brow adds shadow and makes the eyes look deeper set than they are.
- Your own brow hair. If you still have brow hair, work with its natural line, amount and texture. Reshaping against the grain shows.
eyebrow mapping: find your three points
Knowing your face shape tells you what brow shape to aim for. Eyebrow mapping tells you where to put it, and takes the guesswork out of how to shape eyebrows for your face. It is the technique professional brow and microblading artists use for symmetry and correct placement, and it matters most when you are drawing brows on bare skin, because there is no hair to follow.
Three points define every eyebrow.
Where it starts. Where it peaks. Where it ends. These three points come from your own face, not from a trend. They're starting points: check the result with your face relaxed and adjust from there. All you need is a pencil or the handle of a brush.
Hold a pencil or brush handle vertically against your face, resting the bottom against the outer edge of your nostril. Where the top of the pencil crosses your brow bone is where your brow should begin. Mark a small dot.
Brows that start too far apart make the nose look wider. Brows that start too close together can look heavy and drawn in.
Keeping the bottom of the pencil at your outer nostril, angle it so it passes through the center of your pupil.2 Mark a light dot where the line reaches your brow area. Use it as the starting point for your arch, then check the placement with your face relaxed. If your eyes are close set, you can try the arch a little farther out; if they are wide set, a little farther in.1
Moving this point inward or outward changes the entire character of the brow. Getting it right is the key to a well-arched brow.
Angle the pencil from your outer nostril to the outer corner of your eye and extend it upward. Where it crosses your brow bone is where your brow should end.
Tails that end too short leave the face looking unfinished. Tails that go too far down can drag the eye area downward.
With all three points marked, you have a template made for your face. Draw lightly between them following the shape recommended for your face shape, then fill in to the arch height and thickness that suit you.
Aim for sisters, not twins.
No face is perfectly symmetrical, so your two sides won't match exactly. The goal is brows that look balanced from a normal conversational distance. If one brow sits higher or the arch falls in a different place, adjust the fill. Don't force both sides into the same mathematical position.
how to fill in and shape your brows
If you have your own brows, you probably need less than you think: a little shape, a little fill, and something to hold it. Each tool does one job.
- A pencil, for the outline and the strokes. Draw the shape from your three points, then add short, hair-like strokes where brows are sparse. Try the Cardani Refine Brow pencil, or see all our brow makeup.
- A powder, for soft, even fill. Powder looks less drawn than pencil across the whole brow. Start with Cardani brow powder, or use the two-tone brow duo or the brow quad to blend shades.
- A gel or tint, for color that stays. Indelible gel eyebrow liner gives a defined line; brow mascara tints the hairs you have.
- A wax or fixative, to set the shape. Brow wax or Cardani eyebrow fixative keeps everything where you put it.
- A spoolie, for blending makeup. Run a spoolie brush through your brows after each step to soften lines.
Step by step, with pictures: how to draw eyebrows.
three ways to create or enhance your eyebrows
We carry three types of eyebrow products, and each one suits a different situation. Knowing the difference helps you choose what will work for where you are right now, not just what sounds easiest.
eyebrow makeup
From brow pencils to powders, many ways to draw on or fill in your brows, freehand or from your three points. Also customizes tattoos and eyebrow wigs. The most customizable and cost effective; it takes time and practice.
Shown: Cardani Brow Powder
shop brow makeup →temporary eyebrow tattoos
Vegetable dye transfers that go on with water in about a minute, resist water once set, and last two to three days. Quick and realistic, in a wide range of shapes. Colors can vary slightly between batches. How to apply them.
Shown: Eyebrow Tattoos #17
shop eyebrow tattoos →eyebrow wigs
The original gel-backed eyebrow wig, created by Headcovers co-founder Carol Galland after she lost her own brows to chemotherapy. Handmade from human hair attached to a flexible gel strip. The most realistic option, made from real hair. With daily wear, a pair usually lasts two to four months, depending on care. The highest cost, in three shapes. Read the eyebrow wigs guide.
Shown: Eyebrow Wig #12
shop eyebrow wigs →Found your shape? Try it in about a minute with temporary eyebrow tattoos, or build your everyday kit from our brow makeup.
choosing the right eyebrow color
Shape gets most of the attention, but the wrong color can undermine even a perfectly shaped brow. The right color creates natural-looking contrast. The wrong one reads as drawn on, too harsh, or disconnected from your hair.
- Stay within about two shades of your hair color. With lighter hair, such as blonde, light brown or gray, go one to two shades darker so your brows show. With darker hair, go one to two shades lighter so they don't look heavy. If you're recreating brows after hair loss, start with the brow color you remember, or your roots, and compare it against your hair or wig today.
- Undertone matters as much as shade. A warm brown pencil on someone with cool-toned features looks disconnected no matter how well matched the shade is. Check whether your skin leans warm (golden or peachy tones, veins look greenish) or cool (pink or bluish tones, veins look blue or purple) and choose a brow product with a matching undertone.
- Between two close shades, choose the lighter one. A slightly too light brow reads as soft and natural. A slightly too dark brow reads as drawn on. You can always build intensity with a second pass; you can't easily take it back.
eyebrow color by hair color
dark brown or black hair
Start with a dark brown a shade or two lighter than your hair. Soft black or charcoal can suit very dark hair, so compare shades against your natural brow color before you choose black or rule it out. Black can look harsh, especially as skin tone shifts with age or treatment. Build intensity with a second pass. Don't start dark.
medium brown hair
The undertone of your hair matters as much as the depth. Warm medium brown suits a neutral or soft warm brown; very red or orange tones can look orange. Cool medium brown suits a taupe or ash brown.
red or auburn hair
Your brows don't need to match red hair exactly. Copper and strawberry blonde hair suit soft auburn, caramel or light warm brown. Deeper auburn hair suits a warm medium brown. Keep the brow a little less red than your hair, so it reads as brow color.
blonde hair
Go slightly darker than your hair rather than lighter: very fair brows disappear against fair skin and the face loses definition. A soft taupe or warm blonde in a fine-tip pencil gives the most natural result. Individual hair strokes are the difference between brows that look drawn and brows that look real. More in blonde eyebrows.
gray or silver hair
Taupe, ash brown and soft gray-brown are good shades to compare. Very warm or red-toned browns can look out of step with silver hair, so if your current shade no longer looks right, try one of these, leaning lighter. Check them against your skin tone and any remaining brow hair. Brows sometimes keep their original color after scalp hair grays, and you don't need to replace a brow color that still looks natural on you.
if your situation is different
after chemotherapy regrowth
Brows often come back finer, lighter or a different tone. Check your color against the new growth, start light, and adjust as it settles. More in eyebrows after chemo or alopecia.
no brow hair at all
When drawing on a bare brow, your skin tone becomes the main reference. Choose a shade that creates natural contrast with your skin without looking stark. Medium taupe works across a wide range of skin tones and is a safe starting point.
if you wear a wig
Match your brows to the wig you wear now, not to the hair you had before. Compare shades in daylight against the wig's darkest tone, near the part. Call us at 281-334-4287 and a person will help you match them.
how eyebrows change as you age
If your brows have been quietly not working the way they used to, you're not imagining it.
It usually doesn't happen all at once. The pencil you've used for years starts looking a little harsh. Your brows seem to disappear in photos. You look tired even when you're not.
Here's what we've seen in fitting women since 1995: brows change more than most people realize, and small adjustments to color and shape are usually enough.
Brow hair grays and thins with age, so brows lose contrast against the skin. In a study of women's faces, those with more contrast around the eyebrows were judged to look younger,3 and a later study found the same across four ethnic groups of women.4 Brow makeup is a simple way to put some of that contrast back.
when brows get thinner
Brow hair often thins with age. Very thin brows leave the eyes without framing and can look harsh on a face where other features have softened. A soft, medium-thickness brow usually looks younger than a thin line. If your brows have thinned, fill them back toward a soft medium thickness instead of following the thinner line.
the arch matters more now
As the face shifts with age, the brow area tends to drop. A well-placed arch, two-thirds of the way out along the brow rather than centered, creates lift in the eye area and counteracts that downward pull. A drooping brow reads as tired however well it's filled in. If your face is oblong, keep the arch low and get the lift from the tail instead of a high peak. And if the tail of your brow angles downward at the end, lift it.
your brow color
You're restoring contrast, not matching a hair color that has changed: enough that your brows frame your face from a normal conversational distance. If your usual product now reads too warm against gray hair, compare a taupe, ash brown or soft gray-brown, leaning lighter, and build up slowly. If it still looks natural, keep it. More in choosing the right eyebrow color.
For sparse or thinning brows, brow powder and pencil fill the gaps, and temporary eyebrow tattoos can fill in patchy brows. They last longest on bare, smooth skin; over sparse brow hair they still work but wear off sooner.5
if you've lost your eyebrows to chemo or alopecia
Recreating brows from scratch is a different challenge from shaping what's already there. The face shape guidance above still applies, but the technique and the tools change completely. We have been helping women through this since 1995.
1. start with your face shape, not the product
The same rules apply. If you have a round face, you still want a higher arch. If you have a long face, you still want a flatter brow with extended tails. Knowing your face shape gives you a target before you pick up a pencil or apply a tattoo.
When you're drawing brows on a bare face, aim for a natural medium thickness, neither a thin line nor a heavy, bushy brow. A thin line looks drawn on bare skin, and a very heavy brow draws the eye to itself. A soft medium thickness restores the balance hair normally provides.
2. map your brows before you start
The three mapping points work the same way on bare skin, and they matter more there, because there is no hair to follow. Find them with a pencil held against your face and mark them before you draw or apply anything.
3. choose how to wear them
temporary tattoos change as you do
They last two to three days, so you can adjust the look as your face changes during treatment. They're a popular choice for women going through chemo and the most forgiving while you find what works. #17 is our most popular shape and the one to start with. How to apply temporary eyebrow tattoos.
makeup gives you full control
Pencils, powders and gels let you set the shape and color, and the more you practice, the faster it gets. Drawing on your brows each morning during treatment can carry a lot of emotion, and practice makes it quicker and easier. How to draw on eyebrows with no eyebrow hair.
eyebrow wigs are the most realistic
Wear them with Secure Hold adhesive, and take them off at night or before you shower so they last longer. Chemotherapy can make skin more sensitive, so test the adhesive on a small patch first.2 With daily wear, a pair usually lasts two to four months. There are eyebrow wigs for men too.
Compare all three, with pictures, in three ways to create or enhance your eyebrows, or see every option, including salon ones, in eyebrow replacement options.
All three options work well. Often the best approach is trying more than one. Some women use tattoos day to day for convenience and keep eyebrow wigs for times they want the most realistic look. There's no wrong combination, and it may take a little experimenting to find what works best for you.
when your brows grow back
Eyebrows usually start growing back after treatment finishes, often more slowly than the hair on your head, and they may come back thinner or patchier than before.2 The color and texture can change too, so the product that matched before treatment may not match now. Go lighter while you're still learning the new color. More on this in hair growth after chemo.
the brows in this guide
Eyebrow Tattoos #12
A thin, natural shape with a low, gentle curve and soft strokes, sized for petite faces. A match for oval and oblong faces.
shop →Eyebrow Tattoos #16
Feathered, with a defined angled peak at medium height, sized for smaller faces. A match for round faces that want a sharper arch.
shop →Eyebrow Tattoos #17
A soft angled arch at medium height, in 10 colors. Our most popular shape: if you aren't sure what to buy, it works on most faces. Our pick for oval, heart and diamond faces.
shop →Eyebrow Tattoos #18
Feathered, with a medium arch and a long tail. Our pick for pear faces, and a match for oval, heart and diamond.
shop →Eyebrow Tattoos #19
A feathered brow of medium thickness with a shallow arc and a long tail. Our pick for oblong faces, and a match for diamond.
shop →Eyebrow Tattoos #20
A full, thick brow with a soft angled arch at medium height and a short tail. Our pick for round and square faces, and a fuller option for oval faces. One of our most popular shapes.
shop →Eyebrow Tattoos #21
A full, groomed brow with a high, lifted arch and an extended tail. For round, square, diamond and pear faces. One of our most popular shapes.
shop →Eyebrow Tattoos #22
A full brow with a high, soft angled arch and a long tail. A match for round and pear faces.
shop →Eyebrow Wig #12
A straighter shape with a gentle curve, in real hair. Our pick in real hair for oblong faces, and a match for oval.
shop →Eyebrow Wig #15
A classic rounded arch, in real hair. A match for heart and diamond faces.
shop →Eyebrow Wig #17
A more defined arch, in real hair. A match for round, square and heart faces.
shop →the brow makeup in this guide
Refine Brow Pencil
An ultra-fine, twist-up tip for hair-like strokes. Waterproof.
shop →Cardani Brow Powder
Soft, buildable color for a natural fill, applied with an angled brush.
shop →See every shape and shade: temporary eyebrow tattoos | eyebrow wigs | brow makeup
your eyebrow shape questions, answered
How do I choose the right eyebrow shape for my face?
Find your face shape first, then use its section above for the arch, thickness and tail that suit it. If you're unsure, start with the safe default at the top of the page. See find your face shape.
What is the most attractive eyebrow shape?
There isn't one eyebrow shape that looks best on everyone. A soft angled arch with medium height and medium thickness is a useful starting point: it isn't extreme in any direction, so it flatters without requiring precision.
What eyebrow shape is best for an oval face?
A soft angled arch in medium thickness, at a shallow to medium height. Avoid extremes: very flat brows or very high arches. More in the oval section.
What eyebrow shape is best for a round face?
A medium to high arch with a soft or hard angled peak. The lift creates the illusion of a longer, more oval face. Avoid rounded brows, which mirror the roundness of the face and make it look rounder.
What eyebrow shape is best for a square face?
A full brow with a soft angled or soft curved arch at low to medium height. Avoid sharp, dramatic peaks and very thin brows. More in the square section.
What eyebrow shape is best for an oblong face?
A flat to low arch with extended tails that reach slightly past your mapped end point, in medium to full thickness. The horizontal line adds width and interrupts the length of the face. Avoid high arches, which make a long face look longer.
What eyebrow shape makes your face look slimmer?
A higher arch with a soft angled peak creates the impression of a longer, narrower face. This is most effective on round or square faces. For oblong faces, a flatter arch is more flattering because it reduces the appearance of length rather than adding to it.
What's the difference between soft angled and hard angled eyebrows?
Both have a peak. A soft angled arch comes to a gently rounded point and suits most faces; a hard angled arch is sharper and bolder, and works best on round faces that want strong lift.
How do I figure out my eyebrow shape if I have no eyebrows?
Find your face shape and choose its recommended brow, then find your three points with a pencil: where the brow starts, peaks and ends. Placement works the same with or without hair to follow. The mapping steps walk through it.
What eyebrow shape is best after chemotherapy hair loss?
The same face shape guidance applies; the tools change. Temporary eyebrow tattoos, brow makeup and eyebrow wigs all work on bare skin, and #17 is our most popular tattoo shape. See eyebrows after chemo or alopecia.
How thick should I draw my brows if I have no eyebrow hair?
Start with the thickness of the brows you're recreating, or try a medium thickness as a starting point. Draw lightly and check the result from a normal conversational distance before adding more.
What eyebrow color should I use with gray or silver hair?
Taupe, ash brown and soft gray-brown are good shades to compare. Check them against your skin tone, choose the lighter of two close options, and keep a brow color that still looks natural on you. More in choosing the right eyebrow color.
My eyebrows grew back different after chemo. What do I do?
This is very common. Brows can come back lighter, finer, patchier, or with a different undertone than before treatment.2 Check your brow color again against the new growth, start light and build from there, and treat your brow color as temporary while the regrowth settles. If brows are very patchy, our temporary eyebrow tattoos can fill in gaps. They last longest on bare skin and wear off sooner over brow hair.5
How do eyebrows change after 50 and what should I do differently?
Brow hair often thins and grays, so brows lose contrast against the skin,3 and the tail can begin to droop. A little more arch, a lifted tail and a shade slightly darker than your current hair can help, but keep what still looks natural on you. More in how eyebrows change as you age.
keep learning
1 A comparison of expert brow design methods. Facial Plastic Surgery, 2013.
2 Breast Cancer Now. Will I lose my eyelashes, eyebrows or body hair during chemotherapy?
3 Porcheron A, Mauger E, Russell R. Aspects of facial contrast decrease with age and are cues for age perception. PLoS ONE, 2013.
4 Porcheron A and others. Facial contrast is a cross-cultural cue for perceiving age. Frontiers in Psychology, 2017.
5 National Alopecia Areata Foundation. Eyebrows: tools and techniques.
This guide is for informational purposes only. It does not replace advice from your physician. If you have questions about your specific situation, please consult your care team.
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