Hat Style Guide

Types of Hats for Women

What each style is called, how it fits, and how much of your head it covers, with a little history along the way. That third one is the question most hat guides never answer.

There are more kinds of hats for women in the world than most of us realize, and somewhere among them is yours.

A hat says something. It can be reserved or flamboyant, serious or playful, and what you reach for on a Tuesday is rarely what you want for a wedding. Which is why you notice them on other people.

You know the one. You saw it on a woman crossing the street who looked entirely put together, and you thought: that one. What is that one?

This is where you find out. Seventeen kinds of hats and head coverings, laid out with their names on them, so you can wander through and see what catches your eye. Take your time. One of them takes its name from a Russian princess in an 1882 play, and the name was being used for a men's hat by 1883. It is not the one you would guess.

I should say that I have worn and modeled every hat on this page, most of them since I was small enough to need help getting them on. This is my grandmother's company and I have been in it all my life, so the fit and coverage advice below comes from years of seeing how these styles sit with hair, without hair, and over a wig.

Now, let's go and find yours.


17 Hats and Head Coverings at a Glance

Tap whichever one looks like the hat you have in mind, or the one you are trying to put a name to.

Compare Coverage and Best Uses

Every hat name on this page in one place, with its typical coverage and what it is for. These are hats for ladies of any age. Coverage means whether a style usually reaches your hairline and stays there, though it can vary with head size, hair volume and the individual design, so check the product page for exact sizing. Tap any name to jump to it.

Scroll the table sideways to see every column.

Hat styles, coverage and what each is best for
Style Coverage Best for
BeanieFullEvery day, all year, when you are not thinking about hats
Slouchy beanieFullVolume above the crown, which a bare head has lost
BeretFull if worn forwardA soft shape with nothing to dig in
Sleep capFullWarmth at night, hospital stays, under other hats
Newsboy capFullA casual cap with a bit of volume at the crown
Baseball capFull in our soft versionsEveryday casual, and the easiest hat to add hair to
Cadet capFullThe neatest of the casual caps
VisorOpen crownReal heat, or layered over a scarf for shade
Bucket hatFullOne hat, several looks, from the brim alone
ClocheFull, worn low by designA longer face, and coverage that looks intentional
FedoraMay need a headband or linerDefinition and structure on a softer face
Sun hatFull, plus shadeOutdoors, and especially during treatments that increase sun sensitivity
Dressy hatVaries by styleChurch, weddings, dinner, feeling put together
Rain hatFullWet weather, and keeping a wig dry
TurbanFullThe widest range of any style, casual to evening
Head wrapFullThe flattest base layer, alone or under a brim
Head scarfFull, depending on the tieThe most looks from one piece of fabric

Older than you would think

People have worn headgear for as long as there have been people, for function as much as fashion, and as a marker of status and trade along the way. Lay this variety of hats out in order and the range is a little absurd. Some of these shapes have ancient roots and others took their modern form only recently, and the one you would guess was oldest probably is not.

  • AncientThe beret in one form or another goes back thousands of years, which makes every other hat on this page look like a recent invention.
  • Ancient Near EastThe turban is far older than the word for it, which reached English much later, through French.
  • AntiquityThe sun hat was doing exactly the same job then as now. Nobody has improved on it.
  • 1800sThe newsboy cap was worn by men who worked for a living, and comfortably fashionable again now.
  • 1860sThe baseball cap begins taking its modern shape, on teams including the Brooklyn Excelsiors. Brims grew longer through the 1920s and 1930s, and the structured front came later still.
  • 1882The fedora takes its name from Victorien Sardou's play Fédora, whose title role Sarah Bernhardt performed in Paris. A New York hatter was selling men's hats under the name within a year.
  • 1920sThe cloche is closely associated with the Paris milliner Caroline Reboux, and became one of the defining shapes of the 1920s.

Soft Everyday Caps

The kinds with no brim, worn every day

The most common hats of all, and the ones that get worn most. These are the knit caps and soft styles: close to the head, quick to put on, and forgiving about size because they give.

Worth knowing before you scroll: a flat cap can look flat on a bare head. Hair normally sits between the fabric and the face and gives the shape some dimension. Without it, a plain close-fitting cap has nothing doing that job, which is not the hat being wrong so much as a job it was never asked to do before. Styles with a slouch, a gather, a pleat or a soft fold put that fullness back, which is why they so often suit a bare head better than the plainest cap in the drawer does.
Beanies
A woman wearing a soft cotton relaxed beanie cap Full coverage to the hairline

A close-fitting cap with no brim, and the most worn hat there is. Ours are cut deeper than a standard fashion beanie so they sit at the hairline and stay there, front and nape.

Good for almost anything: the yard, the gym, errands, the couch. If you do not know where to start, start here. A plain beanie is the hat that gets worn on the days you are not thinking about hats at all.

See beanies →

Slouchy Beanies and Snoods
A woman wearing a slouchy snood hat with the extra fabric gathered behind Full coverage to the hairline

A beanie with extra length, so the spare fabric gathers and slouches behind. Many have rolls or soft pleats along the top, which gives the whole thing a layered look rather than a flat one.

The slouch does something useful as well as something stylish. It puts height and volume above the crown, which is exactly the shape a head of hair used to make. On a bare head that reads as fullness rather than flatness.

See slouchy beanies →

Berets
A woman wearing a soft wool beret pushed back and to one side Full, depending how far back you wear it

A timeless cap, and by timeless we mean thousands of years. Caps of this shape turn up again and again through history, which makes every other hat on this page a recent invention.

It is a soft round cap with no brim and very little internal structure, which is why it suits a sensitive scalp. There is less in it to press against you. It is also the most forgiving shape to wear, because there is no right angle for it.

Worn pushed back and pulled to one side, a beret looks relaxed and deliberate. Worn centered and flat, it reads a great deal more severe. If you want full coverage at the front, keep it forward rather than back.

See berets →

Sleep Caps
A woman wearing a soft three seam cotton sleep cap Full coverage to the hairline

The one people are surprised to need. A head without hair loses warmth quickly at night, and a cotton or bamboo sleep cap fixes that without anything digging in.

What matters here is the inside, not the outside. Look for a smooth finish against the scalp and as few seams as possible, because scalp sensitivity often arrives alongside hair loss and a seam you would never notice through hair is a different thing on bare skin.

They travel further than their name suggests. Plenty of women wear them for a hospital stay, after surgery, around the house, out to the garden, and under another hat for a little extra fullness.

And some of ours are prettier than they need to be, trimmed with lace or a bow. Add a scarf or a brooch and a sleep cap will go out to dinner with you, which is not a sentence we expected to write either.

See sleep caps →


Caps With a Bill

Casual, a little shade, a lot of history

The various types of caps: anything with a short bill at the front rather than a brim all the way round. These are the workhorses. Many of them trace back to workwear, sport or uniform, which is a good part of why they still look so unbothered.

Newsboy Caps
A woman wearing a gathered newsboy cap with a short bill at the front Full coverage to the hairline

A soft rounded cap gathered into a short bill at the front, worn by working men in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries and comfortably fashionable again now. You will find it in every fabric there is, from summer cotton to winter wool.

The gathers are the useful part. They give the crown real fullness, which is the shape hair used to make, so a newsboy tends to look considerably better on a bare head than a flat cap does. It can be almost flat, or made with a fuller and more rounded crown, and the fuller ones do more of that work.

Many of ours are cut to come down to the hairline rather than perch, so they cover completely, and many have a hidden band at the back that draws the fit in without pinching.

See newsboy caps →

Baseball Caps
A woman wearing a soft stretchy baseball cap Full coverage in our soft versions

An American institution, and older than most people think. Caps with a rounded crown and a front bill were already being worn by teams in the late 1850s and 1860s, and the Brooklyn Excelsiors gave their version its name. Brims lengthened through the 1920s and 1930s, and the stiff structured front familiar today came later.

A standard cap is cut to sit over hair, which means it can leave the hairline showing. Ours are made in a soft stretchy fabric and cut deeper, so they look like an ordinary ball cap and cover completely. Some have hair sewn into the cap itself.

A cap is also the easiest style to layer. A scarf tied underneath, a headband, or a wig all work beneath one, so it is a good hat for the days you want a different amount of hair showing.

See baseball caps → · Hats with hair →

Cadet and Military Caps
A woman wearing a linen cadet cap with a flat crown and short bill Full coverage to the hairline

Somewhere between a baseball cap and a newsboy. The tell is the top: a cadet cap has one flat rounded panel where a ball cap has seams and a newsboy has gathers.

That flat crown makes it the neatest of the three, and the easiest to wear somewhere you want to look put together rather than casual.

See all hats →

Visors
A woman wearing a ribbon braid scarf visor with an open crown Open crown, no coverage on top

A brim with no crown. If you have hair, the open top is the coolest thing you can wear in real heat while still keeping the sun off your face.

If you do not have hair, a visor works as a second layer rather than a first. Put a scarf or a soft cap on, then the visor over the top. You get shade for your face without adding the bulk of a second full crown, which is the real advantage.

See visors →


Brimmed Hats

Shade, shape and a bit of occasion

A brim all the way round changes what a hat can do. It shades, it frames your face, and it gives you something to adjust.

Bucket Hats
A woman wearing a stone colored cotton bucket hat Full coverage to the hairline

Irish, and younger than you would think. Farmers and fishermen were wearing them in the early 1900s, made from unwashed wool so that the sheep's own lanolin kept the rain out. The English upper classes took them up soon after for country walks, fishing and shooting, which is a fair distance for a working hat to travel. It has been casual, then fashionable, then casual again, several times over.

The brim is the whole point. Wear it down for shade, up all the way round to open your face, or up on one side for something with a bit of attitude. Few hats change this much for this little effort.

See bucket hats →

Cloches and Flapper Hats
A woman wearing a violet flapper style cloche hat worn low on the forehead Full coverage, worn low by design

Closely associated with the Paris milliner Caroline Reboux, and one of the defining shapes of the 1920s. Film and fashion keep coming back to it because nothing else looks quite like it.

A cloche is meant to sit low on the forehead, which is unusual and useful. Most hats need bringing down to the hairline; this one is designed for it, so it covers completely without looking as though it is trying to.

It suits a longer face particularly well, because the low brim shortens it.

See cloche hats →

Fedoras
A woman wearing a brown winter fedora with a pinched crown May need a headband or liner for full coverage

Named after Fédora, an 1882 play by Victorien Sardou, with Sarah Bernhardt in the title role as a Russian princess. The play was a sensation and everything associated with it became fashionable, so when a New York hatter wanted a name for a new soft felt hat in 1883, he borrowed hers.

A fedora is defined by its creased crown, usually pinched at the front, and its brim. That crease is the shape that adds definition to a soft face. Fedoras vary a good deal in crown depth and where they sit, and many of ours are softer and cut deeper than a traditional structured version.

Among the brimmed styles here, a fedora is the one most likely to stop short of the hairline, particularly at the nape. It is made to sit on the head rather than be pulled down like a soft cap. A wide headband or a soft liner worn underneath extends it down to the hairline and closes the gap, and it will hold the hat more securely while it is at it. If full coverage matters to you, buy the two together.

See fedoras →

Sun Hats and Wide Brims
A woman wearing an oatmeal cotton wide brim sun hat with a bow Full coverage, plus shade for the face and neck

The oldest job a hat has ever done. People have been wearing brimmed hats for shade since antiquity, and the design has not needed much improving.

For real protection, look for a brim of about three inches or more all the way round rather than only at the front, and a weave tight enough that you cannot see daylight through the crown. A hat shades but it does not seal, so sunscreen still goes on everything the brim does not cover.

This matters more during treatment. Some cancer medicines make skin far more sensitive to sunlight than it used to be, and a scalp that has spent its whole life under hair burns easily once it is exposed. Ask your care team what applies to you.

When sun protection is not the point, the brim becomes something to play with. Turn it up all the way round, or on one side, and the same hat that was doing a job outside is doing something else entirely.

See sun hats →

Dressy and Church Hats
A woman wearing an elegant cloche style dress hat Varies, check the individual style

Less a shape than an occasion. A dressy hat is any of the above made in a finer material, with a little more structure or trim, for church, a wedding, a lunch or an evening out.

Worth having one. There is a particular relief in getting dressed for something and knowing your head is already sorted, and a good dress hat does that in a way an everyday cap cannot.

Cloche hats · All women's hats →

Rain Hats
A woman wearing an olive quilted rain hat Full coverage to the hairline

The one nobody thinks about until they need it. A brim that keeps rain off your face, in a fabric that does not mind getting wet.

If you wear a wig, a rain hat is doing a second job as well: it keeps the wig dry, which can save you a wash and a restyle when the weather turns.

See rain hats →


Wraps, Turbans and Scarves

Not hats, worn like hats

Not hats at all, strictly speaking. These are head coverings rather than headgear, but they do the same job, they belong in the same conversation, and between them they give more coverage than anything else on this page. If you want one piece that goes from carpool to a black tie dinner, it is in here.

Turbans
A woman wearing a pink and white double braid turban Full coverage to the hairline

Wrapped turbans have ancient roots across the Near East, and the word reaches us much later, through French. What we sell is a cap constructed to look like wrapped fabric, so you get the look without doing any wrapping.

It has become the everyday choice for a great many women with hair loss, and the reason is range. The same shape works in cotton for a Tuesday, in jersey for the beach, and in velvet or silk with an evening dress. Very few styles stretch that far.

A turban is also one of the easier styles to have altered if you are between sizes, because it is sewn fabric rather than a built shape.

See turbans →

Head Wraps
A woman wearing a reversible bamboo head wrap in olive and thistle Full coverage to the hairline and nape

Traditionally a long strip of fabric worn around the head, though the word covers a lot of ground now. Many of ours fasten or slip on rather than needing a traditional tie, so they go on in one movement.

They are among the flattest things you can wear, which makes them an excellent base layer. Wear one alone, or under a brimmed hat where a thicker cap would add too much bulk.

See head wraps →

Head Scarves and Bandanas
A woman wearing a cream paisley pre-tied cotton head scarf Full coverage, depending on the tie

Not hats at all, but worn the same way and too useful to leave out. A scarf gives you more looks than any cap, because the same square of fabric ties a dozen ways.

If tying is not something you want to take on, and plenty of women do not, pre-tied scarves are made to slip on finished. You get the look of a tied scarf without the learning.

Head scarves · Pre-tied scarves · Bandanas

How to tie a head scarf → · How to tie a bandana →


Somewhere to start. Styles in cotton, bamboo, wool, straw and more.

Hat Fabrics and Materials

And which fabric suits which day

The shape decides how a hat looks. The fabric decides whether you actually wear it, which is the more useful of the two things to get right.

Scroll the table sideways to see every column.

Hat fabrics and what each one is best for
Fabric What it is like Best for
CottonSoft, breathable, durable, washes well. Many of our cotton styles are organic.Every day, all year
BambooRayon or viscose made from bamboo. Smooth, absorbent and soft against sensitive skin.Hot days and sensitive scalps
Spandex and stretch blendsGives with your head and springs back, so the fit stays put.Anyone between sizes
WoolWarm, insulating, naturally water resistant.Winter, with a liner if wool bothers you
FleeceThe warmth of your favorite sweatshirt, and about as demanding.Cold weather, no fuss
Berber, tweed and corduroyTexture and weight, more interesting than plain wool.Winter, when you want the hat noticed
LinenCrisp, cool and breathable, and it softens with wear. Wash only where the care label allows.Hot weather, and hats you want to look tailored
AcrylicHolds color and shape well in a knit, and washes easily.Easy-care winter knits
Terry clothAbsorbent, exactly like a good towel.Pool, spa, beach
Polyester and performance blendsPerformance blends may be engineered to move moisture and dry quickly.Exercise and humid weather
SilkDrapes beautifully and slips over skin without catching.Scarves and wraps, dressing up
Straw and raffiaLight and breathable, and the only thing that looks right in July.Summer, with a liner if the texture bothers you
Crushable is a real category, and the label is the whole point. Only fold a hat that says crushable or packable. Those are built to come back to their own shape after a bag. A structured felt, straw or blocked hat that is not labeled that way can crease permanently, and there is no undoing it. When a hat is built for it, though, that is the difference between owning a good hat and owning a good hat you leave at home.
On a sensitive scalp, the fabric is only half the story. Seam placement, elastic, labels, lining and the interior finish can matter every bit as much as the fiber. A soft cotton hat with a ridge of seam across the crown will bother you more than a wool one that is lined properly. It is worth turning a hat inside out before you decide.
A note on liners, since they come up in three rows above. A thin cotton or bamboo liner worn underneath can make wool, straw and other textured fabrics far more comfortable on a scalp that has become sensitive. It also means you can wash the liner more often than the hat. It is an inexpensive way to make a textured hat wearable, and it rescues more hats than almost anything else we sell.

Hat Accessories

How one hat becomes several

Buying a hat for every outfit is an expensive habit to start. Fortunately you do not need one. A plain hat and a few small things will get you further than a wardrobe of hats, and the small things cost a fraction of the hats.

Bands, scarves, pins and brooches.

A band around the crown changes a hat's character completely. A scarf tied at the base adds color and a bit of movement. A flower pin or brooch at the side adds a great deal for very little. Swapping any of them takes seconds, and none of them commits you to anything.

Some hats take accessories better than others, so it is worth thinking about while you choose. A plain hat in a neutral color is the one you will get the most out of.

See hat accessories → · Headbands →


Why We Care About This

Specialists in headwear since 1995

My grandmother Carol went through breast cancer treatment in 1990 and could not find one hat she actually wanted to wear. Not one. She was a hairstylist, so she could see exactly what was wrong with all of them: they covered your head and stopped there. None of them gave back the shape hair used to make, or framed a face, or looked like something a person had chosen rather than settled for.

So she and my mother made some. That was 1995. I turned up the year after, and I have been trying them on in front of a mirror ever since.

What she was after was not coverage. It was normal.

She did not want something that merely concealed her hair loss. She wanted a hat. One she could put on and then stop thinking about, so she could walk into a room and be a woman in a nice hat rather than a woman who had lost her hair. Dignity, mostly, and the ordinary pleasure of liking what you have on.

That is still the idea. Coverage is the sort of thing you only notice on the day it fails, which is exactly why we have put it on every style above. So that you never have to think about it at all.


Not sure which style suits you? Our guide to wearing a hat covers placement, fit and face shape.

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