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Decoding Wig Colors
Color codes like FS24/102S12 and R6/30H don't have to be confusing. Here's how to read any wig color at a glance.
When wig colors are called things like "dark blonde" and "light golden brown," it's easy to guess what the color looks like. When wig colors are called things like "FS24/102S12" and "R9F26", knowing what the color looks like becomes much, much harder.
Sifting through the numbers and letters of wig colors can feel like deciphering hieroglyphics. It's overwhelming to say the least, but don't worry. While the combinations of letters and numbers that wig designers use to describe each color don't mean much to the untrained eye, they do have meaning. With a bit of investigation and explanation, decoding wig colors is totally possible. By the end of this guide, wig-roglyphics will feel like your native language. Let's get started!
Understanding Wig Color Numbering
Different wig manufacturers have different versions of colors that might be numbered or named similarly. The wig industry has developed a color code to help systematically describe colors based on natural hair color variations. Here is a general idea of what the color code for wigs looks like.
Brunette, Brown and Black Wig Color Chart
Black and brunette wig colors generally range from number 1 to 13, with 1 being the darkest and 13 being the lightest. Brunette colors are often blended with each other or blended with red to create a warm, dimensional and natural look that is more true-to-life.
Blonde Wig Hair Color Chart
Blonde is one of the most complicated colors to understand when it comes to wigs. Blondes range significantly in color and tone and can be grouped into different color families: there are neutral blondes, warm blondes, and platinum blondes that are all indicated by different numbers. Blondes from different "families" are often blended together to create a beautifully realistic appearance. For example, blondes from the neutral family are often blended with blondes from the warm or platinum family.
Red Wig Color Chart
Natural reds range from color number 27 to 33. Color 27 is the closest to blonde and 33 is the darkest natural red. Reds are often blended with browns, blondes, and other reds to add extra depth. Vibrant reds range from color number 130 to 134.
Grey Wig Color Chart
The grey family includes color number 34 through 60, with 60 being a pure white color. With the exception of color 60, grey wig colors are always a varying blend of grey and brown, off-black, or blonde. Cool platinum blonde (color 101) is sometimes also included in the grey family or incorporated into grey-blend wig colors.
Some platinum blondes may also be classified in the grey family. And while color numbers are fairly consistent across brands, they aren't identical. A color 8 from Jon Renau won't look exactly like a color 8 from Raquel Welch. Use the numbers as a starting point, then look at product photos.
Understanding Letters in Wig Colors
Wait! Numbers AND letters?
Yes, that's right. Algebra isn't the only place where numbers and letters coexist. Fortunately, decoding letters in wig colors is a math-free procedure.
Think of numbers as what the colors are, and letters as how those colors are applied. Typically, letters in wig colors indicate one of two things:
The distribution of color. If more than one color is combined in a wig, letters and symbols are used to indicate the level and type of distribution between the colors. Are there highlights? Is there a foiled look? Are the roots darker? Are the tips lighter? Letters can tell you all you need to know.
The type of hair or collection. Sometimes letters indicate a particular wig line or hair type from a designer. If that's the case, the letters are typically designer-specific and most often listed before the numbers.
Designer Variations
The most difficult part of decoding wig colors is the inconsistency from designer to designer. The meanings of the letters will often vary depending on the manufacturer. Letters can also be a combination of both color collection and distribution method, as is the case in Jon Renau's highlighted colors with the letters RH, standing for "Renau Highlighted."
For letters that indicate how color is distributed, wig manufacturers pair their letters with terms that are commonly used in the beauty industry when applying coloring techniques to natural hair. A blended color, for example, refers to the technique used to blend two or more colors or shades throughout the wig. This type of color may feature a "B" for blended in the name, like 24B22 from Jon Renau.
Because each manufacturer has a different set of letters unique to their own color sets, the same letter or letter combinations can mean different things for different wig manufacturers. However, here are a few of the most common letters used and their meanings, along with some of the specific letters used from popular brands. Each brand also publishes its own dedicated chart. You can browse the full Jon Renau color chart, Raquel Welch color chart, and others in our wig color charts hub.
Color Distribution
Like natural hair, wig hair colors are often a blend of two or more different tones. The letters listed here will let you know how the tones in a wig color are combined.
Darker Roots
A subset of color distribution, wigs with darker roots feature darker hair at the root and lighter hair on the rest of the wig. This type of color distribution is most commonly seen in blonde wigs but is also available in brown, red, and grey shades.
Hair Type or Brand
When letters appear before the number, they usually tell you which collection or hair type the color belongs to rather than how the color is distributed. These are specific to the designer.
The same letter can mean different things for different brands. R can mean rooted (mid-code) or Raquel Welch Synthetic (at the start). S can mean shaded roots (Jon Renau) or something else elsewhere. Position matters: letters at the beginning usually signal the collection, and letters in the middle or end usually signal the distribution technique.
How Wig Colors Are Combined
Color combinations made by wig manufacturers are often blended to re-create popular coloring techniques used in top salons. Leading colorists in both natural hair coloring and top wig designers often work together to create custom color combinations. The wig designers then use their unique number and letter combinations to code and name the color. Numbers can be used alone or combined to tell you what colors the wig contains. For example, 12/26 would refer to a combination of light brown (12) and honey blonde (26). 14/22 can mean a mix of two blonde shades (color 14 and color 22).
Some colors are combined more often than others. The most common wig color combos are:
- Dark or medium brown and red
- Blonde and light brown
- Two or more blonde tones
- Blonde and red
Let's Practice!
Now that we know how to decode wig colors, let's practice!
This Jon Renau color is a doozy. Let's break it down.
Start with the numbers to figure out what colors are in the mix. Then work through the letters in order: position tells you whether it's a collection code or a distribution code, and the number that follows each letter tells you which color it applies to. It sounds complicated the first time, but after a few codes it becomes second nature. You're officially fluent in wig-roglyphics.
Color Variance
Even once you've decoded a color, the colors of wigs don't always look identical from style to style. Here's what can change how a code reads on the hair.
Variance by Style
The way one specific color looks on one wig may not always look the same on a wig of a different style. Cut and style can affect how the color appears. Even with two wigs that are the same color and same style, you might still have slight variation, because the way fibers are distributed is unique to each particular wig.
Wig Texture
Wig texture will also give your wig color a different look. A curly wig with multiple colors throughout will look more defined because light reflects off different parts of the strands as they curl. Straight styles tend to show more of the color on just the top layer of the hair.
Wig Hair Type
Wigs are available in synthetic hair, heat-friendly synthetic, and human hair. Because each hair type is different, the way the color looks will also be slightly different. Human hair wig fibers reflect less light than synthetic ones, so they appear less shiny and seem to have a less saturated color. The processing of human hair also means most colors will have a slightly reddish hue compared to their synthetic counterparts.
Lighting
Lighting influences how each color looks. A wig color will appear brighter with higher contrast in natural light, and darker and more blended in indoor light. If you're trying on a wig at home, check it in both.
Monitor Settings
When shopping for a wig online, keep in mind that monitor settings vary by computer. This will make the color of the wig you're looking at appear slightly different from screen to screen. For this reason, we highly recommend taking advantage of our complimentary color consultation with our wig specialist.
Your Own Hair
The color you're used to seeing yourself in is the one you'll notice against. If your natural color falls between two wig shades, in our experience going slightly lighter tends to look more flattering than going darker.
Wig Consultations & Help In Selecting a Color
Ok, so you're an expert in decoding wig colors. What now? Color descriptions are super helpful when you already have an idea of what you want. Now you can find the honey-blonde highlighted hue you've always dreamed of in a snap. But if you're not sure what wig color will suit you or best match your natural hair, we're here to help.
Still Confused on How to Choose a Color?
See our color guide for help selecting the perfect shade for you, including hair swatch matching and a free consultation with our wig specialist.
See Our Color GuideKeep Learning
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