Decoding Wig Colors

When wig colors are called things like "dark blonde" and "light golden brown," it's easy to guess what the color looks like. When wig colors are called things like "FS24/102S12" and "R9F26", knowing what the color looks like becomes much, much harder.  Sifting through the numbers and letters of wig colors can feel like deciphering hieroglyphics. It's overwhelming to say the least—but don't worry. While the combinations of letters and numbers that wig designers use to describe each color don't mean much to the untrained eye, they do have meaning. With a bit of investigation and explanation, decoding wig colors is totally possible. By the end of this article, wig-roglyphics will feel like your native language. Let's get started!

Understanding Wig Color Numbering

Different wig manufacturers have different versions of colors that might be numbered or named similarly. The wig industry has developed a color code to help systematically describe colors based on natural hair color variations. Here is a general idea of what the color code for wigs looks like:

Blacks, Browns & Brunettes

Black and brunette wig colors generally range from number 1 to 13 with 1 being the darkest and 13 being the lightest. Brunette colors are often blended with each other or blended with red to create a warm, dimensional and natural look that is more true-to-life. 

1-1B: Black

2-4: Off-black and deepest brown

6: Warm, dark brown

7-10: Medium brunette to light chestnut brown

11-13: Light golden brown

Blondes

Blonde is one of the most complicated colors to understand when it comes to wigs. Blondes range significantly in color and tone and can be grouped into different color families: there are neutral blondes, warm blondes and platinum blondes that are all indicated by different numbers. Blondes from different "families" are often blended together to create a beautifully realistic appearance. For example, blondes from the neutral family are often blended with blondes from the warm or platinum family.

14-21: Neutral blondes with 14 (dark neutral blonde) being the darkest and 21 (light neutral blonde) being the lightest

22-23: Light platinum blondes

24-26: Warm blondes with undertones ranging from gold to honey. In this blonde subset, warmth increases as the color increases with 26 being the warmest blonde.

613: Golden platinum blonde

101-103: Also platinum blonde, but with ash undertones.

Reds

Natural reds range from color number 27 to 33. Color 27 is the closest  to blonde and 33 is the darkest natural red. Reds are often blended with browns, blondes, and other reds to add extra depth. Vibrant reds range from color number 130 to 132. 

27: Strawberry Blonde

28-29: Light natural auburn with rust undertones

30-32: Medium to dark natural copper red

33: Burgundy red

130-134: Vibrant Reds/ Violets

Greys

The grey family includes color number 34 through 60, with 60 being a pure white color. With the exception of color 60, grey wig colors are always a varying blend of grey and brown, off black, or blonde. Cool platinum blonde (color 101) is sometimes also included in the grey family or incorporated into grey-blend wig colors.

34-38: Brown and grey blends with less than 51% grey. Think of these colors as mostly brown with grey "highlights." The most common brown/grey blend is color 38; this color varies from brand to brand, but is usually light to medium brown blended with anywhere from 10% to 50% light grey.

43-51: Dark grey and salt-and-pepper tones that vary from brand to brand. This color set typically has 50-75% grey blended with 25-50% brown or black/off-black. 44 is a true salt and pepper in most brands with 50% grey and 50% off-black or darkest brown.

56: Medium grey or smoke grey. This grey is usually 75-80% light grey blended with 20-25% light brown.

60: Pure white

Some platinum blondes may also be classified in the grey family.

Understanding Letters in Wig Colors

Wait! Numbers AND letters? 

Yes, that's right— algebra isn't the only place where numbers and letters coexist. Fortunately, decoding letters in wig colors is a math-free procedure. Typically, letters in wig colors  indicate one of two things: 

1. The distribution of color: If more than one color is combined in a wig, letters and symbols are used to indicate the level and type of distribution between the colors. Are there highlights? Is there a foiled look? Are the roots darker? Are the tips lighter? Letters can tell you all you need to know! 
2. The type of hair or collection: Sometimes letters indicate a particular wig line or hair type from a designer. If this is the case, the letters are typically designer-specific and are most often listed before the numbers. 

Designer Variations

The most difficult part of decoding wig colors is the inconsistency in the letters used from designer to designer. The meanings of the letters found in wig color names will often vary depending on the wig designer. Letters can also be a combination of both color collection and distribution method, as is the case in Jon Renau's highlighted colors with the letters RH, standing for “Renau Highlighted.” 

For letters that indicate how color is distributed, wig manufacturers pair their letters with terms that are commonly used in the beauty industry when applying coloring techniques to natural hair. For example, a blended color will refer to the technique used to blend two or more colors/shade throughout the wig. This type of wig color may feature a “B” for blended in the name, like 24B22 from Jon Renau.  

Because each manufacturer has a different set of letters unique to their own wig color sets, the same letter or letter combinations can mean different things for different wig manufacturers. However, here are a few of the most common letters used and their meanings, along with some of the specific letters used from popular brands:

Color distribution:

Like natural hair, wig hair colors are often a blend of 2 or more different tones. The letters listed here will let you know how the tones in a wig color are combined.

• H: Highlighted. This is a very common designation that is used across many brands.
• L: Layered - The “L” color is distributed over the top layer of hair.
• / : Usually represents an even distribution of colors. Example: Color 8/30 will have an even blend of color 8 and color 30.
• B: Blended- More than one color is blended together to create an all over unified look.
• T: Tipped - The “T” color is located at the tip of the strand. This color is usually lighter than the overall tone of the wig
• FS (Jon Renau): Fashion Syrup - This color technique creates a look that is modeled after highlighting and blending done in salons. This creates a bold highlighted look.
• RH (Jon Renau): Renau Highlighted. Colors with 33% highlights
• F (Jon Renau, Raquel Welch): Foiled - The color is distributed throughout the wig in a manner that looks like it was applied using the “foiling” technique used in salons. 
• S+ (Raquel Welch): Shaded with complimentary colors blended throughout the entire style. This creates a dramatic highlighted look.

Darker Roots:

A subset of color distribution, wigs with darker roots feature darker hair at the root and lighter hair on the rest of the wig. This type of color distribution is most commonly seen in blonde wigs, but is also available in brown, red, and grey shades. 

• R: Rooted - This wig color will have a darker root. This designation is very common and used across many brands.
• SS (Raquel Welch; Eva Gabor; Hairdo, Kim Kimble): Shadow Shade - The color has a darker root than its “non SS” counterpart base color. 
• S (Jon Renau): Shaded with a darker color blended through the roots and crown.
• LR (Noriko; Amore; Rene of Paris): Long Rooted - Darker roots that extend futher into the wig

Hair Type or Brand:

• HH: Human Hair - The color is used for human hair wigs only.
• HF: Cardani Heat Friendly
• RN: Renau Naturals. This is only available in Jon Renau human hair wigs. RN colors are the only wig colors that can be dyed.
• RL: Raquel Welch Heat Friendly
• R (Before Number): Raquel Welch Synthetic Color
• BL: Raquel Welch Human Hair
• GF: Gabor Heat Friendly
• GL: Gabor Luminous Synthetic Hair
• MC: Kim Kimble Heat Friendly Hair

How Wig Colors Are Combined

Color combinations made by wig manufacturers are often blended to re-create popular coloring techniques used in top salons. Leading colorists in both natural hair coloring and top wig designers often work together to create custom color combinations. The wig designers then use their unique number/letter combinations to code and name the wig color. Numbers can be used alone or can be combined to tell you what colors that the wigs contain. For example, 12/26 would refer to a combination of light brown (#12) and honey blonde (#26), or 14/22 can mean a mix of two blonde shades (color 14 and color 22). 

Some colors are combined more often than others when it comes to wigs. The most common color combos are:

• Dark or medium brown and red
• Blonde and light brown
• 2 or more blonde tones
• Blonde and red

Let's Practice!

Now that we know how to decode wig colors, let's practice! 

• FS24/102S12 - This Jon Renau color is a doozy! Let's break it down.
  • First of all, we can see that there are 3 different colors combined, as indicated by the three different numbers: 24 (warm golden blonde), 102 (cool platinum blonde) and 12 (light brown).
  • There are also three letters/symbols to let us know how the colors are distributed: FS, which stands for "fashion syrup" and indicates bold highlights. /, which indicates an even distribution of two colors.  S, which indicates a darker root. The number following S is the color of the root.
  • So taking everything together... FS24/102S12 is a golden blonde with an even amount of dramatic cool platinum highlights and a light brown root.

• R6/30H
  • Since there are two numbers, we can see that there are two different tones combined: 6 (dark brown) and 30 (medium copper).
  • There are also three letters/symbols to consider: R, / and H. In this instance, the R indicates the designer and wig line because it is placed before the number; this color is part of the Raquel Welch Synthetic hair collection. The / indicates an even amount of both colors and the H shows us that there are highlights.
  • So decoded, R6/30H is a color in the Raquel Welch Synthetic collection that is dark brown with an even amount of medium copper highlights.

• 24BT18S8
  • First, let's look at the numbers: 24 (medium golden blonde), 18 (neutral light/medium blonde), and 8 (medium brown).
  • Now let's look at the letters: B (blend), T (tipped i.e. lighter tips/ends), and S (shaded, i.e. darker roots).
  • So 24BT18S8 is a blend of medium golden blonde and neutral light blonde with light blonde tips and medium brown roots.

Color Variance

Variance by Style

The way that one specific color looks on one wig may not always look the same on a wig of a different style. Cut and style can effect how the color appears. Even with two wigs that are the same color and style, you still might have slight variation. Each and every wig is slightly different in that the way the fibers are distributed is unique to that particular wig. 

Wig Texture

Wig texture will also give your wig color a different look. A curly wig with multiple colors throughout will look more defined because light reflects off of different parts of the strands as it curls. Straight styles tend to show more of the color on just the top layer of the hair. 

Wig Hair Type

Wigs are available in synthetic hair, heat friendly synthetic hair, and human hair. Because each hair type is different, the way the color looks will also be slightly different from hair type to hair type. For example, human hair wig fibers reflect less light than those in a synthetic wig, so they will appear less shiny and seem to have a less saturated color. The processing of natural human hair also means that most colors will have a slightly reddish hue when compared to their synthetic wig counterparts. 

Other Color Influences:

Lighting:

Lighting influences how each color looks. A wig color will appear brighter with higher contrast in natural light, and darker and more blended in indoor light.

Monitor Settings:

When shopping for a wig online, keep in mind that monitor settings vary by computer. This will make the color of the wig that you are looking at appear slightly different from screen to screen. For this reason, we highly recommend taking advantage of our complimentary color consultations with our wig specialist. 

Wig Consultations & Help In Selecting a Color

Ok, so you're an expert in decoding wig colors. What now? Color descriptions are super helpful when you already have an idea of what you want—now you can find the honey-blonde highlighted hue you've always dreamed of in a snap. But if you're not sure what wig color will suit you or best match your natural hair color, we're here to help. Our wig consultant can help select the perfect color for you based on a hair swatch, photo or cross reference of another wig color. Learn more about our color consultation process here.

Shop our full selection of designer wigs here.